I have enjoyed HO
scale slot cars since the 70's and in the past 10 years or so started
racing 1/24 scale Parma FCR cars, stamped steel flexi chassis, wing
and drag cars. Recently, I have been focusing on 1/24 scale model
body "Hardbody Stocker" racing with the Pro-Track and H&R chassis on a
large wooden commercial track. What a blast!
I also have some
custom scratch built chassis for model bodies in the works, including
a "Pulling Truck" for the truck and tractor pulls. The "tuner" cars
will be fun projects for my home track, I have 5 models planned.
I have some 1/32 scale slot cars, this is new to me so I'm looking forward
to the adventure!
Also, if you have
any questions or comments, send me an
email,
if I don't know the answer, I'll make something up that sounds good!
This 1968 Firebird
stock car (retired) has the Pro-Track "Full Scale Hard body" Chassis.
It's the first one I built that started a new class of racing at
Raceway Alley
in 2006.
'71 Mustang "The Rabbit"
Body is now Retired
1970 Road Runner
1969 Chevy Corvair (retired)
Custom 1969 Z28 Camaro Stocker
1970 Mustang
Stocker running a Parma S16D arm in a Pro-Slot
can... it's a rocket!
1971 Mustang "The Big Meany" .
Scratch Built
Hardboby Chassis
This is an old K&B Chassis kit that
came with a 36D motor and some sort of Lexan body. I originally built
the Willys at the right to fit this chassis.
Open Wheeled
Modified 1940 Willys, '68 Firebird hood, grill of a '32
Ford and the engine is Chevy.
There was suppose to be an Outlaw
Modified class that never really happened, I think we ran two races
with four cars. I believe the problem was the old K&B brass chassis that
was chosen, it was very heavy. Plus that 36D motor was a turd and
there is no real replacement to fit. Then the replacement motor became
the sealed Deathstar that required some modifications for a solder
mount and all interest seemed to fade.
Now the rule is, "build an open wheeled
modified car on any chassis, any motor and we'll race it". So...
This is my completely scratch built
chassis for this class. It's custom built to fit the 1940
Willys above. It's kind of on the same basic idea of the Pro-Track
Composite chassis (that has suddenly become hard to find) but is not
an exact copy. It's all brass and steel wire with "plumber" type body
mounting hinge setup.
This is a close up shot of the
"plumber" hinge. This allows for the body to float for improved
handling by separating motor and drive train
vibrations from the body.
Here's an over view of the #14
"Star" Mustang's chassis. It's built similar to the open wheeled racer
above that runs and handles very well on a commercial track with a 16D
motor. This car sports a hopped up Super 16D.
Interested in a "How To" with
plans? Let me know...
email
1/24 scale Hardbody Stocker Building Page...
Click this photo for an
illustrated,
step by step building of this car, check
it out!
I have started racing in the Ohio Valley Retro Race Series.
(Slotblog link)
. I'm still in the testing stages and
didn't do well the first time out. The combination of the unfamiliar
track, poor handling cars and a malfunctioning controller, that made for
a real bad day!
At the right is my first
attempt at a Retro Can-Am/GT Coupe class. I used front wheels I
had on hand and rear tires were what I had available at my local
shop
At the right is the same basic
chassis with a rebuilt front section. I'm hoping that it will lay
down a bit flatter and stay in the slot. I may be learning
something...oops! It has the JK front and
rear tires and the Falcon motor. The only thing not shown is a
steal rear body brace wire to prevent the spoiler on the body from
pushing down on the tires in the straight. That caused a
chattering issue that scrubbed off a lot of speed.
My first Formula 1
chassis below wasn't anything to brag about, looked good but
didn't handle well. I ran about 63 laps into the second heat and
crashed into a handful of junk... enough said.
I extended the wheel base to
4.25 inches on my new Formula 1 chassis, it seems to handle well
on an oval track in testing. It's light at 100.3 grams and
seems quick.
The JK Spec Chassis, not as
much of a scratch build as it is a modified, I need to do more
work on it.
This is the Outisight Ti22 Can-Am body
My Flexi GT Coupe entry is the
JK Sunoco Lola T-70 GT on the
Cheetah 7 chassis.
This is my old
10 band Difalco controller. I replaced the trigger bushings with
ball bearings and have replaced almost everything else on it due
to connecting it to the track wrong... well, brain farts happen!
I upgraded the standard brake pot to the 3 Ohm unit and cut an old
tire container to cover it for protection from dirt... and
my abusive nature. It has plug-in resistors that I had changed
several years ago for a bit more sensitivity, I don't recall what
was in it originally but for the 16D motors it didn't seem the
have much "pedal". Now I'm running the Falcon motors that
seem to be a
bit touchy, so I have expanded it the a 160 Ohm resistor array.
With the sensitivity dialed to slow I can make a car crawl on a
road course and it can be dialed to fast for 16D motors on the
oval track.
I just got started
on this Carrera track in January 2008... finally! It has a 25' 10" inside
lane with a 27' 11" outside lane.
I replaced the double crossovers with a chicane and can add the
crossovers back to have two 27' 2" lanes.
I used interior doors doweled together to get the size I needed; two
3.5x6.6 ft. sections connected to form an "L".
The base is made of scrap wood. My space is limited, so I need it to
slide around on the base to get around the
back sides when needed for maintenance.
Recently I added
1/4 inch foam insulation, "Blue Board", to deaden that hollow door sound
and it allows me to tape the wiring flat to the surface.
Next, I'll cut the 1 inch blue foam to fit around the track openings,
sculpt, paint and add trees to make scenery.
This I can lift out for modifications and cleaning. If I ever want
to make changes, enlarge or move, I can reuse everything.
I started this 1/24 scale Ford GT last summer,
finally got it mounted to the
Pro-Track chassis. I tried the PlaFit Cheetah, Fox and finally settled on the Rabbit motor. Looks like that has just enough power for a small home track.
1/25 scale 1940 Ford Coupe Click the photo above
to see my scratch built chassis.
I have a few 1/32 scale cars so far, I plan to scratch build some
chassis to fit 1/24 and 1/25 scale model body's.
That should keep me out of trouble... maybe.
Slot.it Nissan R390 GT1 kit with House of Kolor's
Copper to Green Flip. "A Snow Day Project"
This is my soon to be "old" HO scale
track I built in 2002, I think... I wanted something that would be easy
to clean. I thought vinyl kitchen table
cloths, like grandma used, might work. It is easy to clean, the problem
is that it has a cotton backing that drills and screws get twisted up
in.
So I wouldn't recommend its as a base, looks nice though. I have it
wired to a computer running
Lap
Timer 2000 . It's a nice
program
with excellent wiring directions on the site, you can even order the
wiring harnesses directly from the author if you need to.
The nine inch Daytona High Bank turn
is a fast run.
I have several Johnny Lightning,
older AFX Magna Traction and
T-Jets and some newer Tyco, Lifelike, Super
G-Plus cars as well.
Hot Rod GTO T-Jet
Resin cast Cadillac T-Jet
This is one of my old favorites,
Ferrari 512 M.
I built this traction pan onto an AFX
chassis back
in the 70's. It still handles like a dream!
Some
drag slot cars above feature these parts:
Champion Overhead Springs, QT Leadwire, Gold Dust Brushes, Group 20
S16D Armatures, Top Gun, Sonic, King Crown, Slot Sprocket Gears.
Made by: Parma, Pro-Slot, Pro-Track, H&R, WRP, REH, DRS, Slick 7, JDS,
Koford, Mura.
With Ford, Mercury, Chevy, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Buick, Chrysler,
Plymouth, AMC
model car kit bodies from Monogram, Revell, Ertl, AMT.
Built with the Hudy Tire Truer, Com Lathe, tools.
)
